Conch Pearl Jewellery: A Rare Treasure from the Depths of the Sea
Necklace by David Morris
This necklace is made up of 51.62cts Conch Pearls, 41.28cts White Diamonds, 16.97cts Paraiba Tourmaline and 7.24cts Pink Sapphires, set in 18ct White & Red Gold
The allure of the ocean has always sparked dreams, and jewellery inspired by sea life holds a special place in our hearts. Among these treasures, the conch pearl stands out as one of the rarest and most exquisite marine gems, celebrated for its unique beauty and unparalleled rarity.
‘Lilly’ yellow gold and palladium with Diamonds and Conch Pearl Brooch from Aenea Collection
A Conch Pearl surrounded by yellow, pink and white diamonds, pink sapphires, rubies and emeralds, handcrafted in palladium, white and red gold.
Unlike traditional pearls, conch pearls are non-nacreous, meaning they lack the iridescent layers typical of nacreous pearls. Instead, they exhibit a porcelaneous lustre that is entirely their own, often adorned with a mesmerising "flame-like" pattern. Found in shades ranging from soft pink to vibrant red, and occasionally yellow or brown, conch pearls are formed within the Queen Conch shell ‘Strombus gigas’, a gastropod mollusc native to the warm waters of the Caribbean.
The rarity of conch pearls is extraordinary. It is estimated that only one gem-quality conch pearl is found in every 15,000 shells, and not all are of sufficient quality to be considered gems. This scarcity has made them a prized possession for collectors and jewellery connoisseurs alike. Luxury jewellers often showcase conch pearls as the centrepiece of their collections, celebrating their organic elegance.
The ‘Reticella’ Cuff from David Morris
A cuff with 78cts Conch Pearls, 47cts White Diamonds, set in 18ct White and Rose Gold.
British high jewellery brand David Morris has a notable fascination with conch pearls, which I’ve often admired in their collections. In 2018, I had the privilege of art directing and styling a photoshoot featuring breathtaking conch pearl full set pieces by David Morris. Memorable is a recent symmetrical necklace adorned with 151.62 carats of conch pearls and Paraiba tourmalines, a stunning creation that inspired me to write this feature.
The ‘Monet’ Peach Earrings from Austy Lee
18K Rose gold with Caribbean Conch Pearls, Colombian Emerald, Blue Sapphires, Fancy Yellow diamonds, Champagne diamonds and White diamonds.
Hong Kong-based designer Austy Lee also known as Wendy Yue’s Chief Designer also incorporates conch pearls into his brand’s imaginative collections, such as ‘The Exoskeleton of Venus.’ His unique approach celebrates the imperfections of conch pearls, transforming them into the defining beauty of each piece. This artistry exemplifies how nature’s diversity becomes a hallmark of luxury.
Conch Pearl and Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Earrings by Boghossian
Drop-shaped conch pearl earrings with fancy intense yellow diamonds encrusted with twelve emerald cut pink sapphires and fancy pink brilliant diamonds.
Swiss jewellery house Boghossian has also embraced the rarity of conch pearls, creating delicate earrings featuring two impressively sized drop-shaped conch pearls with yellow and pink overtones. Set with fancy intense yellow diamonds and surrounded by emerald-cut pink sapphires, these earrings are a testament to the perfection found in imperfection.
While there is no direct archaeological evidence of conch pearls being used as adornments in ancient times, conch shells held symbolic significance for early civilisations such as the Incas, who regarded them as mouthpieces of the gods. It is reasonable to imagine that conch pearls were similarly treasured and incorporated into jewellery.
‘The Dame Earrings’ by Harry Winston
Sparkling diamonds paired with rubies and pink conch pearl beads, brings a colorful new prospective to the iconic Winston Cluster Earrings. Featuring 12 pink conch pearls, these dazzling earrings feature stones in varying shades of pink, some darker or lighter in colour for added dimensionality and are anchored by two oval-shaped rubies, along with diamond cluster accents.
One of the most famous conch pearls ever known is a remarkable 45-carat gem, pearshaped and a vivid reddish pink in colour. s, the largest gem-quality pink conch pearl on record at the time. It was set into a necklace by Harry Winston in the 1980s and famously modelled by Elizabeth Taylor on the cover of Good Housekeeping magazine in 1990. While it has changed hands at auction several times since, its current whereabouts remain a mystery.
Conch pearl jewellery continues to tell stories of nature’s artistry, adding timeless elegance to any collection. As we delve deeper into the ocean’s wonders for inspiration, conch pearls stand as symbols of rarity, beauty, and the enduring magic of the underwater world.
The rare Conch Pearls, only one gem-quality conch pearl is found in every 15,000 shells not all match the standards and. quality expected by jewellers