Erdem at 20: Celebrating Two Decades of the House of Erdem and the Winter 2026 Show
Final looks Winter 2026 collection
Two decades after founding his eponymous label, Erdem Moralıoğlu marked a milestone moment with the presentation of his Winter 2026 collection at Tate Britain a setting that felt not only appropriate, but almost inevitable. Few designers have built a world as coherent, as emotionally charged, and as deeply rooted in culture as Erdem. His work has always lived at the intersection of fashion, art, and literature, and this anniversary show reaffirmed why his brand remains one of the most respected independent houses in London.
From the beginning, Erdem has stood apart. In an industry driven by speed and spectacle, he has remained committed to a vision of fashion that is timeless, researched, and profoundly human. Season after season, he renews himself without ever abandoning the codes that define him: romantic silhouettes, historical references, couture‑level craftsmanship, and a narrative depth that feels almost novelistic. It is no surprise that before launching his brand, he completed an internship at Vivienne Westwood, another designer who understood the power of history, subversion, and storytelling.
A Designer Who Writes in Fabric
Erdem’s shows have always felt personal, but this anniversary collection carried an even deeper intimacy. On every seat, guests found a handwritten letter from the designer a tradition he has maintained for years. These notes are never generic; they are thoughtful, emotional, and reveal the intellectual spark behind each collection. This season’s letter opened with the words:
“Dear Friends, This show is called The Imaginary Conversation…”
A title that perfectly encapsulates Erdem’s approach: each collection is a dialogue between past and present, between real women and imagined muses, between the fragility of memory and the permanence of craft. The letter closed with a heartfelt thank‑you to everyone in his studio, a gesture that reflects his humility and the collaborative spirit that defines his house.
A Democratic Front Row, A Democratic Vision
One of the most distinctive aspects of an Erdem show is the democratic front row. There is no hierarchy, no rigid separation between celebrities, editors, and industry insiders. Instead, the seating is arranged to create a sense of community, allowing every guest to feel immersed in the collection. This approach mirrors the ethos of his brand: fashion not as spectacle, but as shared experience.
The Winter 2026 show drew an impressive audience, including Glenn Close, Helen Mirren, and Keira Knightley—women whose elegance, intelligence, and presence align perfectly with Erdem’s universe. Over the years, the brand has cultivated a devoted celebrity following. Cate Blanchett, Ruth Negga, Claire Foy, Michelle Dockery, Alexa Chung, Princess Catherine, and Sienna Miller have all worn Erdem’s creations, drawn to the way his clothes combine strength with softness, structure with poetry.
Twenty Years of a Singular Vision
What makes Erdem’s 20‑year milestone so remarkable is that he has achieved it as an independent designer a rarity in today’s fashion landscape. His success is not built on hype or trend‑chasing, but on consistency, integrity, and an unwavering commitment to beauty. His collections are meticulously researched, often inspired by historical figures, forgotten artists, or literary heroines. He approaches fashion like a curator, weaving together references that feel both scholarly and sensual.
His silhouettes tea‑length dresses, sculpted coats, embroidered gowns have become modern classics. Yet he never repeats himself. Each season introduces new textures, new narratives, new emotional layers. This ability to evolve while remaining unmistakably Erdem is the hallmark of a true auteur.
The Winter 2026 Collection: A Conversation Across Time
The anniversary collection felt like a culmination of everything Erdem has explored over the past two decades. There was drama, but never theatrics. Romance, but never nostalgia. The clothes carried the weight of history yet felt undeniably modern. Fabrics moved like brushstrokes; embellishments glimmered like museum artefacts; silhouettes shifted between restraint and release.
And as always, after the final look, Erdem took the time to speak to guests about the mood and meaning behind the collection a gesture that reinforces the intimacy of his world. He does not hide behind the clothes; he stands beside them, guiding the audience through the story he has crafted.
A Legacy Still in Motion
Celebrating 20 years is a significant achievement, but for Erdem, it feels less like a conclusion and more like a new chapter. His brand remains one of the few in fashion that prioritises emotion over noise, craftsmanship over speed, and storytelling over spectacle. In an industry that often forgets its own history, Erdem reminds us that fashion can be both modern and meaningful, both intellectual and deeply felt.
As the applause echoed through Tate Britain, it was clear that Erdem Moralıoğlu has not only built a brand he has built a legacy. And twenty years in, his conversation with fashion is far from over.
