Gucci’s New Era: Demna’s “La Famiglia” and the Theatre of Identity
After months of speculation, whispers of AI-generated concepts, and a digital blackout that left the fashion world guessing, Gucci unveiled its first collection under Demna Gvasalia and it arrived not with a runway, but with a cinematic lookbook titled La Famiglia. Released ahead of Milan Fashion Week, the collection was introduced through a photographic shoot captured by Catherine Opie, marking the first visual expression of Demna’s creative vision for the House.
La Famiglia is not just a collection it’s a character study. Each look is framed like a portrait, presented as part of an extended Gucci family. The concept is unapologetically Demna: humorous, ironic, and deeply referential. While nods to Tom Ford’s sensual minimalism and Alessandro Michele’s maximalist eccentricity are present, the vision is unmistakably Demna’s sharp, provocative, and culturally attuned.
L’archetipo
Gucci's origins in "valigeria" (luggage) began with Guccio Gucci’s time as a luggage porter at London's The Savoy’s Hotel in the late 1800s. Inspired by the high-end luggage of the international elite, he returned to Florence and founded his own artisanal luggage workshop in 1921, specializing in exceptional craftsmanship and sophisticated travel goods, eventually developing the famous Gucci monogram and equestrian motifs.
The lookbook opens with L’Archetipo, a monogrammed travel trunk that pays homage to Gucci’s origins as a valigeria. From there, the cast unfolds: L’Incazzata smolders in a ’60s-style red coat, her fiery temperament embodied in silhouette and shade. La Bomba channels feline volatility through stripes, while La Cattiva exudes femme fatale severity. Miss Aperitivo is simply here for pleasure, and L’Influencer a sly nod to the social media fashion obsessive parades her curated chaos.
One of the most memorable archetypes is Sciura, a term deeply rooted in Milanese culture. She represents the affluent, impeccably dressed older woman whose elegance is effortless and whose glamour is timeless. Popularised by the Instagram account @Sciuraglam, the Sciura is both muse and mirror a reminder that style transcends age and that fashion, at its best, celebrates personality over trend.
Demna’s decision to present each character in Italian, without translation, is a deliberate play on language not as polished dictionary form, but as lived vernacular. It’s a nod to Gucci’s heritage and a rejection of global homogeneity. The message is clear: Gucci speaks in many tongues, but always with attitude.
Heritage codes are revived and reimagined throughout. The iconic Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag is re-proportioned for today’s silhouettes, while the Horsebit loafer an emblem since 1953 returns with exaggerated flair. The Flora motif appears in its classic form and in a darker, nocturnal incarnation. And the GG Monogram, Guccio Gucci’s initials, dominates the collection with head-to-toe bravado: from lens to loafer, it’s all or nothing.
Silhouettes span extremes. There’s the maximalist grandeur of feathered opera coats and high jewellery, contrasted with the neo-minimal sensuality of seamless hosiery garments. Menswear embraces glamour too, with sheer bodycon sets and black-tie swimwear offering a fresh interpretation of la dolce vita. Dressing for pleasure is not just encouraged—it’s essential.
What makes La Famiglia so compelling is its ability to speak to the young generation without pandering. Demna’s characters are exaggerated, yes, but they’re also familiar. They reflect the personas we see and sometimes perform online and in life. Gucci, under his direction, becomes a mirror, a stage, and a playground for identity.
This is not fashion as product it’s fashion as narrative. With La Famiglia, Demna repositions Gucci as a house of storytelling, where every garment is a line of dialogue and every accessory a prop. It’s theatrical, audacious, and deeply personal.
And the story is just beginning. Gucci has confirmed that Demna’s first official runway show will take place in February 2026, where the brand will present its A/W 2026 collection. If La Famiglia is the prologue, the main act promises to be unforgettable.