Saint Laurent Goes Gold: A 10‑Year Tribute by Anthony Vaccarello
At Saint Laurent this season, all that glitters truly was gold. Anthony Vaccarello transformed the Summer 2027 runway into a molten, shimmering universe, presenting a collection the runway became the ultimate Saint Laurent moment: a golden spectacle that defined Vaccarello’s ten‑year legacy with absolute clarity. Opposite the Eiffel Tower, under the night sky and the glow of chandeliers, the house unveiled a single, uncompromising message: gold as attitude, gold as identity, gold as the ultimate expression of Saint Laurent’s power.
Vaccarello has always understood the potency of a singular gesture. For his tenth anniversary at the house a decade that began in April 2016 after Hedi Slimane’s departure he chose to celebrate not with retrospection, but with radiance. “I’ve had this collection in mind for a long time, and I finally felt that this was the right moment to bring it to light,” he wrote in a handwritten note. The phrasing was intimate, and the show reflected that intimacy: a designer revisiting his own codes through a single, luminous colour.
One after another, the looks descended the runway in gold burnished, Byzantine, pale, reflective, liquid. Sahariennes, trenches, blouses, and skirts, the pillars of the Saint Laurent wardrobe, were reimagined in metallic surfaces that transformed their familiar shapes. The house’s DNA remained intact: sharp shoulders, elongated lines, sensual draping, and the unmistakable tension between structure and skin. But the gold altered everything, making the silhouettes feel newly charged, almost sculptural. It was as if Vaccarello had taken Saint Laurent’s codes and dipped them in sunlight.
The fabrics amplified the effect. Brocade, organza, lamé, and guipure lace shimmered with different intensities, creating a spectrum of gold that shifted with every movement. Latex, coated in gold leaf, became one of the collection’s most striking elements — a material associated with provocation transformed into something regal. Gold proved remarkably chameleonic, adapting to each fabric’s personality while maintaining its dominance. It enveloped the garments, altering their weight, their presence, their attitude.
The front row mirrored the runway’s radiance: Rosé, Kate Moss, Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber a constellation of modern icons witnessing Vaccarello’s golden decade. The atmosphere was cinematic, sensual, and unmistakably Saint Laurent. Under the chandeliers, the models moved like figures emerging from a gilded dream, their silhouettes catching the light in ways that felt both modern and mythic.
Amid the golden tide, a brief interruption arrived: black. A handful of looks appeared as counterpoints, grounding the collection before the finale. The contrast was deliberate, a reminder that Saint Laurent’s identity has always lived between darkness and brilliance. But gold remained the protagonist the ultimate presentation of the house’s attitude.
Summer 2027 at Saint Laurent was not simply a collection. It was a milestone, a declaration, a celebration of ten years of sharp sensuality and cinematic glamour. All that glitters is gold and at Saint Laurent, gold became the language of legacy.
