In The Spotlight: Coco Fong and Valerio Bava’s Grounded Grace & Sophistication at Malone Souliers.
Tucked away just a few blocks from the V&A Museum, the Luxury Endless team stepped into the inviting London office of Malone Souliers to meet the creative force reshaping the brand's legacy Coco Fong and Valerio Bava. The duo came into position two years ago, and I had the pleasure of meeting them right at the start of their journey, over a sunlit lunch on Harrods’ terrace. There was an instant connection not just for their sharp fashion sensibilities but for the warmth in their smiles and the grounded elegance they brought to every exchange.
Valerio, hailing from Naples, is every bit the embodiment of how one imagines Italian charm confident, magnetic, and always dressed to impeccable perfection, like an actor stepping into frame. Coco’s quiet sophistication, with her signature minimal-chic aesthetic and radiant white smile, brings balance and grace. Together, they have reimagined the soul of Malone Souliers, bringing a fresh energy that fuses glamour with comfort yes, even in their iconic 10mm heels.
The Power Duo that stepped into Malone Soulier as Co Creative Directors; Coco Fong and Valerio Bava
Luxury Endless : Let’s begin with your journey. Can you each introduce yourselves and share how your personal backgrounds and creative paths led you to Malone Souliers?
Coco Fong: I am from Taipei and moved to London to study at university. Initially intending to study womenswear, I took an opportunity to design footwear and instantly felt a sense of belonging and fulfilment on a creative and personal level. In my third year of university, I chanced upon Malone Souliers on Instagram when the brand had just started. Many emails and interviews later, I started my internship. I did it all - making coffee, packing samples, calling clients, all the while watching and learning about the design process that was happening in front of me. When I finally got the opportunity to design, I took it immediately.
Valerio Bava: I was born and raised in Naples. I studied Shoes & Accessories Design at IED Milan, then I worked for a consultancy studio, working on design and development of both shoes and leather goods. This deeply formed my expertise for elevated design and knowledge on product. I then came across an opportunity with Malone Souliers, and took it swiftly, relocating from Milan to London and starting in the early days of this brand which has now been my home for the past 8 years.
Luxury Endless : You were both part of the design team before stepping into the role of Co- Creative Directors. What did that transition look like, and how did it reshape your relationship with the brand?
CF: It was a long process (10 years!) and was of course a lot of long hours and hard work. I look back on these moments very fondly and am grateful for the help and lessons received along the way.
VB: The role of creative director is very different; we now have a 360 approach to what the brand looks like and how it’s presented to the world. The whole thing feels more personal now – we infuse a lot of our own interests and culture into shaping what Malone Souliers looks like in the future.
Luxury Endless : What does it mean to you to be leading a British luxury footwear house with such a distinct identity?
VB: It feels like such a privilege to be entrusted with leading the brand, facing a world-wide clientele and seeing how our product reaches so many different people
CF: On a personal level I am immensely proud of this journey, this partnership with Valerio, and the very talented team we have the pleasure of working with every day.
VB: We always strive to make our shoes and bags stand out among the crowd, accessories that are loved and lived in. That’s ultimately what Malone Souliers is about for us.
CREATIVE PROCESS & COLLABORATION
Luxury Endless : As a creative duo, how do you divide roles—or do you prefer to blur the lines and co-create every detail?
CF : As we’ve worked together for years before stepping into this role, the process is very organic – we happen to switch between roles and tasks but most of the times we work in tandem. That’s how the best ideas come about!
Luxury Endless : What are the advantages and challenges of designing as a pair? How do you navigate creative disagreements?
CF: The advantages are that you have a sounding board, and you get to throw out and polish ideas together. I cherish those conversations the most. There will no doubt be disagreements, but you learn to slow down, listen, and question.
VB: We have a deep love and respect for each other and that’s the only way to find balance in a creative duo with such different personalities. Collaborative work should be practiced and encouraged more in any design team.
Luxury Endless : Can you walk us through your process when conceptualising a new collection? Where do you begin—moodboards, materials, muses?
CF: When we start a new collection, we make sure to block out time for long conversations. We talk about anything and everything – books and films and shows that have stayed with us, but also about life and travels. Somewhere between these topics something will resonate deeply enough to become the inspiration to a collection. The concept then gets refined through plenty of research.
Luxury Endless : How do you ensure that each collection feels fresh while still remaining unmistakably “Malone”?
CF: We speak a lot about how the MS customer has evolved, and we want to make sure we evolve with them. We’re constantly discovering something new about our customers and that gets translated into the designs. Spending time with the people and the products is essential for us to make sure we always have a pulse on the brand and the landscape of footwear.
VB: There is always a part of the collection that feels “unmistakably Malone”, but then we also present some newness; something that you wouldn’t expect from us. There is a touch of Malone in that too, just less obvious.
INSPIRATION & ICONS
Luxury Endless :If you could dress any icon from the past in Malone Souliers, who would it be and what would they wear?
CF: Princess Diana, her grace and style has always been an inspiration. I would imagine her in the Laurie slingback.
VB: Audrey Hepburn. It doesn’t get more iconic than that, and she’s definitely an endless inspiration for me and Coco. She totally incarnates the Malone icon from the past.
Luxury Endless : And today, who are the individuals you’re most excited to see wearing your designs? Any recent moments that felt especially affirming?
VB: I love to see our shoes on anyone who is making a mark and doing their thing in their respective fields. Seeing our shoes on Beyoncé for her Cowboy Carter tour more recently has been very affirming.
Luxury Endless : Do you design with a specific woman or lifestyle in mind, or is it more about capturing a mood?
CF: I think we design for someone who is confident, creative, and unique, qualities we hope to achieve in our designs too. But I do always have my mom in the back of my mind when I design!
VB: There is usually a multitude of women in my mind when designing a collection. That’s the beauty of working in a shoe brand: you can play with different characters within the same collection.
BRAND EVOLUTION & EXPANSION
Luxury Endless : The recent introduction of bags marks a new chapter for Malone Souliers. What inspired this expansion, and how do you see the accessories line evolving?
CF: We have had a lot of requests from clients to have matching bags to shoes, so we decided to build this category slowly and steadily. Bags have such a different function and quality to shoes, so it’s fun to tap into a different creativity.
VB: The idea is to expand it to a stand-alone collection, and the introduction of our new May clutch goes in that direction.
The New ‘May’ Clutch
Luxury Endless : How do you balance the brand’s artisanal roots with the demands of a fast-moving fashion landscape?
CF: In a fast-moving fashion landscape, it is even more critical that we recognise the value of craft and quality. We have worked with the same Italian factories for years and it is a commitment from both sides to grow together. It’s about highlighting and showing appreciation for the work that they do and making sure the skills are passed on and standards are upheld.
VB: We always try to make sure to avoid following trends too closely and changing dramatically every season. The brand is classic with a modern twist and will continue this way.
Luxury Endless : What does the future hold for Malone Souliers? Are there new categories, collaborations, or creative territories you’re eager to explore?
CF: There is always something in the pipeline! We’ve had many conversations with different creative collaborators across different categories. We’re eager to show up more in new and exciting ways.
VB: This allows us to stretch the boundaries of what Malone Souliers looks like!
Luxury Endless : Sustainability is increasingly central to the luxury conversation. How are you approaching this within your design and production ethos?
VB: We try to avoid any waste, any unnecessary development. We use recycled, plastic-free packaging and sustainable alternatives to our materials, where possible. We also tend to reuse surplus materials to create exclusive, small capsules. But I think it’s tricky to talk about sustainability when producing something new.
CF: We are constantly learning from people who are pushing for a more sustainable way of working and manufacturing. We want to be a part of this conversation in an authentic way.
PERSONAL PERSPECTIVES
Luxury Endless : What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned from each other creatively?
CF: To be curious, to play and experiment and push for creativity.
VB: The most valuable lesson I learnt from Coco is to be patient, even in creativity. It’s definitely not my strongest suit!
Luxury Endless : What’s one pair of shoes from the archive you’ll never stop loving—and why?
CF: A personal favourite from the archive is the Vale. I am a real sucker for a strappy sandal. It has a comfortable 70mm heel height, well placed straps, and features the most delicate gold chain.
VB: There is a style we introduced in SS19, Danielle, still one of my favourite designs to this day.
The ‘Laurie’ slic
Luxury Endless : Finally, how do you define luxury today, and how do you hope Malone Souliers continues to shape that definition?
CF: I think luxury is balance, it is staying connected to the human touch, to craft and heritage, while embracing innovation and technology. I hope we can continue to speak to our customers in a way that is authentic and inclusive, while bringing beauty, joy, and inspiration through the products we create.
VB: Luxury today is an ever-changing definition, difficult to grasp, especially in these very challenging times. We take a slow-paced approach to luxury, producing 4 collections a year, keeping within the fashion calendar. We are very transparent on the way our shoes are crafted, trying to remain competitive while producing with the best materials and factories available in Italy. Finally, we make sure to be consistent in our stand-out designs and comfort, so that we can build long-term relationships with our community.