Brooches : The Revival of a Forgotten Jewel
Harry Winston The King Emerald and Diamond Brooch A brooch featuring 7 emerald cut Emeralds (3.20cts), 158 emerald cut, baguette and tapered baguette Diamonds (14.33cts), Set in Platinum. The King Diamond Brooch A brooch featuring 165 emerald cut, baguette and tapered baguette Diamonds (17.74cts), Set in Platinum.
Once relegated to the realm of dusty heirlooms and grandmotherly adornment, the brooch has returned to the fashion conversation with unexpected force. No longer a static accessory pinned politely to a lapel, it has become a dynamic statement worn with intention, styled with creativity, and embraced across genders. In recent seasons, the brooch has shed its old-lady reputation and stepped into the spotlight as one of jewellery’s most versatile and expressive forms.
Fashion’s cyclical nature has always flirted with nostalgia, but this revival feels different. It’s not about irony or costume it’s about reinvention. Designers are treating the brooch not as a relic, but as a tool for storytelling. From the runways of Paris to the streets of Milan, we’ve seen brooches pinned in ways that feel fresh, directional, and emotionally resonant.
Moussaieff
High jewellery brooch set with 133.81 carats of yellow diamonds in yellow gold.
The classic placement high on the lapel of a tailored jacket still holds its charm, especially when paired with masculine suiting or heritage tweeds. But today’s brooches are migrating. They’re appearing on fur stoles, cinching the waist of fluid dresses, adorning the shoulder of minimalist gowns, or even fastened to the collarbone like a tattoo of sparkle. The waist, in particular, has become a focal point brooches used to gather fabric, add asymmetry, or punctuate a silhouette with unexpected glamour.
Moschino
On the runways, Miu Miu, Prada, and Schiaparelli have led the charge. Miu Miu’s recent collections featured brooches styled on sheer knits and schoolgirl coats, adding a touch of rebellion to preppy codes. Schiaparelli, true to its surrealist DNA, offered sculptural interpretations that blurred the line between jewellery and art.
Then came Moschino Fall/Winter 2025, where the brooch took on a new form entirely. In a moment of pure Moschino humour, models walked the runway with Polaroid photographs of jewellery pinned directly onto their outfits a tongue-in-cheek commentary on fashion’s obsession with image, status, and surface. It was irreverent, clever, and oddly poignant. The brooch, in this case, wasn’t just decoration it was satire.
But let’s turn our attention to the real thing the high jewellery brooches, the ones passed from mother to daughter, the pieces that carry legacy and emotion. These are the brooches that transcend trend and become part of a family’s story.
We’ve recently seen Princess Kate Middleton wearing remarkable brooches from the royal collection, each steeped in history and symbolism. Queen Elizabeth II, too, was rarely seen without a brooch it was a signature of her impeccable style and a visual language of diplomacy. Her brooches marked occasions, honoured relationships, and added gravitas to her public appearances.
Tiffany & Co. Blue Book Collection Shell Brooch in Yellow Gold and Platinum with a Green Tourmaline and Diamonds
Tiffany & Co. Blue Book Collection Mermaid Brooch in Platinum and Rose Gold with a Black Opal, Diamonds, and Sapphires
In the world of contemporary high jewellery, the brooch is being reimagined with breathtaking artistry. Harry Winston continues to produce regal brooches that evoke old-world glamour. Their King Emerald and Diamond creations are architectural marvels—stones so rare and settings so precise, they feel destined for coronations.
Tiffany & Co., in its Blue Book 2025 “Sea of Wonder” collection, introduced whimsical shell and mermaid brooches that blend fantasy with opulence. These pieces are crafted with Schlumberger’s archival spirit and modern storytelling, inviting wearers to dive into a world of imagination and elegance.
Moussaieff, known for sourcing some of the world’s most exceptional stones, stunned the industry with a flower brooch set with 133.81 carats of yellow diamonds in yellow gold. It’s a piece that defies scale and expectation a bloom of brilliance that feels both botanical and celestial.
Messika
Terres d’Instinct High Jewelry Collection – Cascade Brooch – White gold, Diamonds- 16.69 carats
Meanwhile, Messika brings a rebellious edge to the brooch. Their diamond fringe cascade, set in white gold, channels rock’n’roll glamour with precision. It’s jewellery that moves, that dances with light, and that speaks to a new generation of collectors who crave emotion as much as excellence.
Perhaps the most exciting evolution is the brooch’s embrace across genders. Once reserved for ceremonial dress or royal occasions, brooches are now appearing on male celebrities, stylists, and editors with increasing frequency. Timothée Chalamet, Harry Styles, and Jeremy Pope have all worn brooches on the red carpet not as ironic flourishes, but as genuine style statements.
Adler brooch "Fan'tasia" in 18kt white gold set with one Colombian pear-shaped emerald 7.70 cts, 7 pear-shaped emeralds 2.78 cts, 5 pear-shaped diamonds 1.57 cts and 164 diamonds 3.52 cts. Removable pendant
The male brooch is often styled with restraint: a single piece on a black tuxedo, a vintage pin on a denim jacket, or a pearl-accented brooch on a cashmere knit. But it’s also being used to disrupt. A diamond brooch on a bomber jacket, a floral pin on a leather trench—these are the moments where jewellery becomes part of the fashion dialogue, not just an accessory.
In high jewellery, this shift is profound. It signals that ornamentation is no longer gendered it’s personal. It’s about expression, emotion, and elegance.
Chopard
Flower brooch in aluminium and 18 carat white gold set with black and white diamonds.
The brooch’s resurgence is also tied to the rise of vintage jewellery. As sustainability and sentimentality shape consumer choices, heirloom pieces are being reinterpreted. A Victorian mourning brooch, a 1920s Art Deco pin, or a 1970s enamel piece all find new life when styled with contemporary silhouettes. Rose gold, in particular, has become a favourite metal for brooches, offering warmth and softness that complements both vintage and modern aesthetics.
At Luxury Endless, we’ve seen increased interest in brooches across editorial and social platforms. Our readers are drawn to pieces that feel personal, that carry history, and that offer styling versatility. Whether it’s a diamond starburst on a bridal veil or a sculptural pin on a trench coat, the brooch is proving its relevance in today’s fashion landscape.
The brooch is no longer a footnote it’s a headline. It’s a piece of jewellery that invites creativity, transcends gender, and adds depth to any look. In a season where fashion is rediscovering emotion, ornament, and individuality, the brooch offers quiet rebellion. It’s not loud, but it’s unmistakable. And for those who know how to wear it, it’s unforgettable.
