Demna’s Decade: The Balenciaga Reformation
In the hushed halls of Kering’s historic Laennec headquarters in Paris, a revolution is on display. Balenciaga by Demna, the landmark exhibition running from June 26 to July 9, 2025, is more than a retrospective; it’s a manifesto. Curated by Demna himself, the show marks the end of his seismic 10-year tenure at the House, a period that redefined not only Balenciaga, but the very language of luxury fashion.
Balenciaga by Demna exhibition
When Demna Gvasalia took the reins in 2015, Balenciaga was still cloaked in the legacy of Cristóbal’s couture precision. What followed was a cultural detonation. Drawing from his Eastern European upbringing and a deep understanding of post-Soviet realism, Demna dismantled the codes of traditional elegance and rebuilt them with irony, intellect, and a raw, streetwise edge.
The exhibition opens with a poetic nod to the past: a collection of invitation objects from previous shows each one a conceptual artifact. From there, visitors are immersed in 101 exhibits spanning 30 collections, each handpicked by Demna to chart his evolution from provocateur to prophet. These include full runway looks, accessories, and footwear, as well as two rare pieces loaned by the Palais Galliera fashion museum.
Among the most iconic moments on display: the now-infamous trash bag clutch, a commentary on consumerism that sparked global headlines; the shipping tape dress worn by Kim Kardashian, which blurred the line between packaging and couture; and the oversized trainers boldly stamped with their size a cheeky jab at vanity sizing and a celebration of transparency. These weren’t just garments; they were cultural critiques.
Demna’s Balenciaga was never about surface. It was about subtext.
He reimagined Cristóbal’s architectural volumes through dystopian tailoring, explored the “readymade” with upcycled garments, and turned trompe-l’oeil into a tool of disruption. His work questioned not just what fashion looks like, but what it means who it’s for, how it’s worn, and why it matters. The exhibition’s title, Exactitudes, borrowed from his final Spring 2026 collection, encapsulates this ethos: a study in identity, uniformity, and the tension between individuality and mass culture.
The staging itself is a masterclass in immersive storytelling. Garments are displayed on hyper realistic mannequins modelled after original runway castings, suspended on drycleaner- style hangers, or paired with archival references on double-sided mounts.
Select pieces are treated as artworks, including a humanoid sculpture by Mark Jenkins reinterpreting Demna’s closing look from the Summer 2022 “Red Carpet” show, and kinetic installations by Andrew J. Greene that animate accessories into motion.
And for those unable to attend or eager to take the experience home; the exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue designed in the style of a glossy fashion magazine, featuring editorial-style imagery of the exhibits alongside visuals created exclusively for the publication. It’s a fitting tribute to a designer who blurred the line between runway and reality, fashion and art.
But perhaps the most powerful element is the audio. Fifty exhibits are accompanied by narration in a digitally rendered version of Demna’s voice, offering intimate insight into his creative process. It’s a rare moment of vulnerability from a designer who has often let his work speak louder than his words.
This exhibition arrives at a pivotal moment. With Demna now appointed Creative Director at Gucci, and Balenciaga poised for a new chapter under Pierpaolo Piccioli,
Balenciaga by Demna serves as both a farewell and a foundation. It reminds us that fashion, at its most potent, is not just about beauty; it’s about bravery.
Demna didn’t just modernise Balenciaga. He radicalized it. He made it speak to a generation fluent in memes, climate anxiety, and cultural critique. He proved that luxury could be subversive, that couture could be conceptual, and that a hoodie could carry as much weight as a ballgown.
As visitors exit the exhibition, they’re left with more than admiration; they’re left with questions. About identity. About value. About the future of fashion.
And that, perhaps, is Demna’s greatest legacy: he didn’t just change the brand. He changed the conversation.